IVC : Chapel-le-Dale
WHERNSIDE
Saturday 27 August 2011


Our Day We Prepare Whernside Ribblehead Viaduct Maps Evening Please Read Me



Our First Day

After some preparation and dancing to the Weather Gods, we scaled Whernside, the highest mountain in the Yorkshire Dales. This just required steady application. It was windy on top, but the view was good! First, we passed Chapel-le-dale Church, with its associations with the building of Ribblehead Viaduct. Then we had good views of the viaduct itself nesting in the wide-open landscape of the Yorkshire Dales. After this came the actual ascent. The ascent just required steady application. It was windy on top, but the view over the Yorkshire Dales was excellent! There was short shower on our descent, but we took this in our stride.



Time for a lunch break with a view on Whernside

After our descent, a visit to the Viaduct and the museum on Ribblehead Station put things into a nice historical context. A return in the evening rewarded us with the splendid sight of a steam horse pounding across the Viaduct.



We get ready for our First Walk

Preparations, especially for the first walk, are interesting affairs. We all seem to have our own rhythm and way of doing things - traditional dancing included. It is the unenviable duty of joint action by organiser and walk leader to "call the faithful to prayer". Success was achieved, and off we eventually moved as a unified entity.




This is our abode for the next three nights. A bit dark at the moment, but the cloud will soon burn off.




This is the traditional IVC ritual to placate the Weather Gods. We were blessed with good weather for the day, except for some rain as we passed Bleamoor Tunnel. I suspect that for a complete placation, both feet must be at least ONE foot above the ground with the hands simultaneously clasped above the head in urgent supplication (prayer mode). Still, life is a learning process. However, I think such activities are best left to the experts.




Rearing to go.




Definitely rearing to go.




Our organiser stands in the doorway, looking a tad bemused, but seemingly reaching for the starting pistol. I mean, there is still some rucksack packing and shoe tying going on. Our seasoned walk leader has seen it all before.




"OK folks!", says he, reaching for his holster. "Let the waggons roll! Let's quit the scene!"



Climbing up to Whernside

We scaled the highest peak in the Dales. On the way up we passed Chapel-le-dale Church, with its associations with the building of Ribblehead Viaduct. Then we had a good view of the viaduct itself in the wide-open landscape. After this came the actual ascent. The ascent just required steady application; yes, there was some exertion, but we took it carefully. It was windy on top, but the view was good! A short shower on our descent, but we took this in our stride - literally!




Near the start of our walk we pass Chapel-le-Dale Church (Diocese of Bradford - in case you ask) which has a memorial to, and graves of some of, the guys who built Ribblehead Viaduct (1870-1875) and who died before they could see the fruits of their labours. Tough work and tough times. Not too much "Health & Safety".




Ribblehead Viaduct follows us on our Saturday and Sunday Walks. The Midland Railway wanted a route to Scotland from London St Pancras, so as to compete with (1) the London & North Western and associates from London Euston and (2) the Great Northern Railway and associates from London Kings Cross. Hence the scenic Settle to Carlisle Line, which is still used for passenger and freight (e.g. logging trains) as well as steam specials. Ribblehead Viaduct is the largest viaduct on the line. Beeching was overruled and the locals won the day. The line is a local lifeline when snow falls thick and fast and icicles decorate the eaves.




We stop for a banter about life in general and the walk in particular. Our colleague in the white coat keeps a careful watch over the flock.




The Ribblehead Viaduct is picturesquely framed by trees ...




... and sits snugly in the landscape, as if it - the viaduct - had always been there. As if time had stood still. You want a few facts and figures? The viaduct is a quarter of mile long and drops by 13 feet - north to south. The track bed had to be reasonably level because Midland Railway engines were not renowned for their power and hauling capabilities.
(Midland Railway small-engine and double-heading philosophy).




We rise to higher things, and as we do so, this somewhat singed flag meets our gaze. Surely this cannot be a political statement by those Lancastrians!




We reach the top and find that the trig point is out of sight behind the wall. Curious!




We park ourselves on the other side of the wall and soak up sun and landscape as we munch our sandwiches.




It's that wall again as we head north east along the ridge, soaking up the great outdoors.




Ribblehead Viaduct hides in the landscape to our south west.




We make our gradual descent, ...




... all the while taking in the rich tapestry of sunshine and clouds laid out over hill and dale.



Ribblehead - Viaduct, Station & Museum

Towards the end of our walk we got up close to the Ribblehead Viaduct itself, taking care to dodge any falling masonry, about which the notices warned us - Health & Safety, you know! We visited the museum at Ribblehead Station. The museum taught us something about the Midland Railway and the construction of the Ribblehead Viaduct. The Viaduct is a part of the Settle & Carlisle line which was the Midland Railway's link between London and Scotland.




The rain has come and gone as we descend along a clearly visible footpath to the Ribblehead Viaduct hiding in the shade. A Sprinter sprints across the said viaduct.




As we munch some more of our sandwiches, our Trip Organiser and our Walk Leader make a combined visit of discovery to ...




... the memorial sitting at the foot of the viaduct. The viaduct was renovated in 1989 and declared fit for use (single rail track only) but still bits of limestone fall off it. There is an official footpath under the viaduct and walkers are officially required to dodge the falling bits of masonry.




For some a visit to the Station Inn pub is of immediate necessity. For the hardier types who appreciated history, a visit to the interesting museum on Ribblehead Station is next on the plan. The former chapel room in the station has some interesting pictures in the glass panes that make up the east-facing window. Here is the coat of arms of the Midland Railway - pre-1924 of course and with Wyvern (apparently hereabouts an adopted local beastie). The familiar Midland Red oozes out - satin-like - around the splendid crest.




Ribblehead Station is well looked after by the "Friends of the Settle to Carlisle Line" after saving the station from near dereliction. Shiny Midland Red paint gives a period feel to all the station trimmings and fittings.




In the tea and souvenir room, we see some name plates. On top are the wheel arch plates that once adorned three of Sir William Stanier's classic 4-6-0 steam engines.




Ribblehead is a typical Midland Railway Station - as said, nicely preserved and lovingly looked after.




A quick visit to the Station Inn for a pot of Earl Grey - or similar - enabled us to appreciate the view from the garden across to the Viaduct.




Three quarters of the rear-guard party are ready to return to Chapel-le-Dale. The Sun is trying to make them appear incognito - but we know who they are.



Stepping Back in Time - The Steam Train Passeth

Armed with the knowledge of when the steam special would cross the Viaduct, our esteemed Event Organiser gave some of us a lift from the School House back to the said Viaduct in time to get some piccies. Much appreciated! Alan took another group to get some close-up piccies - Gill has some very good close-up shots of the iron horse.




The train cometh from Carlisle at the appointed time. 16:44 is what one of the "Friends of the S & C Line" in the museum said, as he looked at the train schedules of the day. And 16:44 it was.




The Stanier Black-Five hurries the maroon Mk1 carriages across the viaduct, which basks in the evening sun and stands off well against the clouds. A stirring sight.




The train forges onwards and southwards.
Ribblehead Station is just ahead.




A more detailed view.



Our Evening

We had the first sample of Jason's cuisine. Some of the hardy drinking types front-ended the meal with another pub visit, this time to the watering hole opposite the School House. Tomorrow's plan was clear. Having done the highest peak in the Dales, the obvious aim was Ingleborough, reputedly the second highest peak.