Scots History, Railways & Coastal Indentations
GLENFINNAN
Monday 29th May 2011


Our Day Glenfinnan Arisaig Tioram C'le Kentra Bay Read Me


Visting Places other Tourists don't always reach

We had a really pleasant binge on Scottish history - Bonnie Prince Charlie of Shortbread tin fame (1745), transportation technology pre-Beeching (1901), and a dose of the mediaeval (13th Century). As if that wasn't enough to excite our intellects objectively, we saw some fantastic scenery, enough to keep the subjective aspects of our beings happy and content. Thanks Jim again for your great suggestions. It was a day well spent - and we coped magnificently with the challenges of Highland weather!



Stunning Scenery on the Way to Tioram Castle

Glenfinnan

What a lovely amalgam of Bonnie Prince Charlie (1745) and the glorious age of steam (1901 and pre-Beeching). We see the steam age "Jacobite" on the pioneering concrete Glenfinnan viaduct (McAlpine rules OK), take in the glorious view of Loch Shiel with its monument to the Young Pretender, and enjoy tea and shortbread next to a fifties diner while looking out onto a lush Highland scene in the full glory of early summer (OK, late spring if you must).




I grabbed this view of Bonnie Prince Charlie's monument as we sped by in the car.




Jim is inspecting Glenfinnan Station. It's a pity the interesting Highland Railway museum was being refurbished. Perhaps another time.




Winter can be interesting round these parts. Here is a railway snow plough (plow in American) based on a Gresley V2 tender. No connection with Gerry's war time presents.




We took a while negotiating the ultra muddy path which led from Glenfinnnan Station to this vantage point, but were just in time to see the "Jacobite" storming across the Glenfinnan viaduct (my 12MP picture gives more detail) ...




... and - below our tussock - steaming on to Mallaig. I don't need to tell those in the know, that the motive power is a Stainer Black Five from the late thirties. However, even enthusiasts will not be able to read the BR number, which the 12MP version of my picture gives as 45231.




Now that we have seen the train, we can admire the glorious view of Loch Shiel (Kinlochshiel? - the head of Loch Shiel?) and the Bonnie Prince Charlie Monument (centre left).




Now a diesel Sprinter appears on the viaduct. The Sprinter is not so aesthetically pleasing as the Jacobite, but far more efficient to operate. It stops awhile on the viaduct for passengers to take piccies - which is more than the Jacobite did! Err? What do you mean? Well, it's at least 3 to 4 times more expensive to travel (between Fort William and Mallaig) on the Jacobite than on the Sprinter, but the latter made with the photographic opportunity.




The Glenfinnan Viaduct is an early exercise in concrete (Mc Alpine circa 1901) and really impressive. It has weathered nicely to blend into its surroundings - which is more than one can say for some more recent concrete edifices - but perhaps they need to weather too.




I dig those curves - in a manner of speaking.




We walk back to Glenfinnan Station and take tea or coffee and shortbread on the terrace outside the fifties (Mk 1) dining car. The lush mountain view is most relaxing as the sun warms us.




From the terrace we can observe many a Highland bird. This appears to be a Greenfinch. Sorry about the quality of the picture. Birds are most flighty at the best of times and Jim can take better bird pictures than I can.




And here is a spotted bird. Come on, you budding ornithologists! What is it?

Arisaig

We have our refreshments and head for Arisaig, a pretty - almost coastal - village on the way to Mallaig. We have some lunch at Arisaig and note that amid this Highland tranquillity, Arisaig played host to the Czechoslovak freedom fighters during WWII. The freedom fighters trained hereabouts only to find that Stalin's Iron Curtain had descended on Czechoslovakia after WWII - it took another half a century or so for many Central Europeans to gain their political freedom.




The bay at Arisaig is endowed by Nature with islands ...




... and by man with sailing boats.




The pretty sea front of Arisaig retains its charm of yesteryear, but its shops and businesses are firmly rooted in the modern world.

Tioram - The Secret Castle

Tioram Castle, here we come. Well first we have to find it - a gem of a place hidden in a beautifully wooded and island-studded inlets. Almost like Finland but a tad hillier. The castle is air conditioned throughout - i.e. without roof, floors or windows (if it ever had any of the latter) and structurally dangerous to boot. But the 13th century castle looks the part in its surroundings.




It looks as if we are driving straight into Loch nam Uamh, but no, we keep our feet dry.




Nice scenery ...




... is followed by more nice scenery.




And in a few seconds we see the Isle of Rum front-ended by the Isle of Eigg. Eigg has that hallmark of a castle-like rock jutting out on the left. Recognise it anywhere!!




Still further we go through attractive scenery ...




... until we hit a side road with houses that would make attractive summer retreats. We drive up to the end ...




... until, on the left we see the castle, its gaunt shell ...




... attractively set in beautiful, wooded, almost Finnish style, inlets.




Anyone sailing in from the west would have confronted this castle face on. The castle sits on a small promontory, which apparently could be cut off at high tide.




This is the south facing view from the castle. We parked our cars on the left.




Here are some more nice views ...




... oozing dollops of ...




... pleasant, natural ...




... peace and tranquility. I wonder what it's like in winter?




Here's your's truely giving the impression of having come over the Big Pond to claim a long lost family possession. Would I be so lucky!




We leave the castle to the next lot of enterprising visitors.

A Sandy Jewel of a Bay

Kentra Moss and Kentra Bay are yet another of the varied landscapes that this part of the world has to offer. Flatter yes, but always with the mountains in the background. It was nice and sunny for our walk up to the forest.




The landscape is peppered with a few modest dwellings and some boats.




Sometimes just pleasant wilderness ...




... and a few granite rocks.




The mountains seem never to be far away ...




... and stand proudly in the sunshine. And now it's a scenic drive back to Fort William.